Why ingredients order matters
By law, cosmetic ingredients must be listed in descending order of concentration. The first ingredient on the list is the most abundant - usually water (Aqua) or aloe vera. The last ingredients are present at less than 1% concentration and can appear in any order after that threshold.
This means: the first five to seven ingredients make up the bulk of the product. If you love or hate a product, those are the ones responsible.
A good rule of thumb: if an ingredient appears after the preservatives (like phenoxyethanol or sodium benzoate), it's present in very small amounts - often less than 0.5%.
Common ingredients decoded
Humectants - attract moisture
These ingredients draw water into the skin from the environment and deeper skin layers. Look for: Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate), Panthenol (B5), Urea, Propylene Glycol.
Emollients - soften and smooth
Emollients fill gaps between skin cells, making skin feel soft and look smooth. Look for: Squalane, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter.
Occlusives - lock moisture in
These create a barrier on the skin surface to prevent water loss. Look for: Petrolatum, Beeswax, Dimethicone, Lanolin, Mineral Oil.
Ingredients to approach with caution
Some ingredients are not harmful for most people but can be problematic for sensitive or reactive skin:
- Fragrance / Parfum - the most common cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis. Both synthetic and natural fragrance can trigger reactions.
- Essential oils - despite being natural, many are potent sensitisers (citrus oils, lavender in high concentrations).
- Alcohol Denat. - can be drying and irritating in high concentrations.
- Sulphates (SLS, SLES) - effective cleansers but stripping for dry or sensitive skin.
Fragrance is listed as a single ingredient by law, but can represent a blend of dozens of individual compounds. This is why "fragrance-free" is not the same as "unscented" - the latter may contain masking fragrances.
Using this in practice
You don't need to memorise every ingredient. A useful habit: before buying a product, check the first five ingredients. If they align with your skin's needs - you're in good shape. If you see fragrance or alcohol in the top five and you have sensitive skin, proceed carefully.
If your skin feels reactive or tight even with “gentle” products, the cause may be barrier-related. Our guide to barrier-supporting ingredients walks through what to look for and what to avoid while your skin recovers.
