Why ingredients order matters
By law, cosmetic ingredients must be listed in descending order of concentration. The first ingredient on the list is the most abundant — usually water (Aqua) or aloe vera. The last ingredients are present at less than 1% concentration and can appear in any order after that threshold.
This means: the first five to seven ingredients make up the bulk of the product. If you love or hate a product, those are the ones responsible.
A good rule of thumb: if an ingredient appears after the preservatives (like phenoxyethanol or sodium benzoate), it's present in very small amounts — often less than 0.5%.
Common ingredients decoded
Humectants — attract moisture
These ingredients draw water into the skin from the environment and deeper skin layers. Look for: Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate), Panthenol (B5), Urea, Propylene Glycol.
Emollients — soften and smooth
Emollients fill gaps between skin cells, making skin feel soft and look smooth. Look for: Squalane, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter.
Occlusives — lock moisture in
These create a barrier on the skin surface to prevent water loss. Look for: Petrolatum, Beeswax, Dimethicone, Lanolin, Mineral Oil.
Ingredients to approach with caution
Some ingredients are not harmful for most people but can be problematic for sensitive or reactive skin:
- Fragrance / Parfum — the most common cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis. Both synthetic and natural fragrance can trigger reactions.
- Essential oils — despite being natural, many are potent sensitisers (citrus oils, lavender in high concentrations).
- Alcohol Denat. — can be drying and irritating in high concentrations.
- Sulphates (SLS, SLES) — effective cleansers but stripping for dry or sensitive skin.
Fragrance is listed as a single ingredient by law, but can represent a blend of dozens of individual compounds. This is why "fragrance-free" is not the same as "unscented" — the latter may contain masking fragrances.
Using this in practice
You don't need to memorise every ingredient. A useful habit: before buying a product, check the first five ingredients. If they align with your skin's needs — you're in good shape. If you see fragrance or alcohol in the top five and you have sensitive skin, proceed carefully.
