What makes skin sensitive?
Sensitive skin is characterised by a lower threshold for irritation — it reacts to stimuli (products, temperature, stress) that wouldn't affect other skin types. This is usually due to a compromised skin barrier, allowing irritants in and moisture out more easily than healthy skin.
The best ingredients for sensitive skin either support the barrier, reduce inflammation, or provide soothing hydration without triggering a reaction.
The best ingredients to look for
Ceramides
Ceramides are lipid molecules that make up roughly 50% of the skin barrier's "mortar". Sensitive skin often has depleted ceramide levels. Products with ceramides (Ceramide NP, AP, EOP) actively rebuild the barrier and reduce reactivity over time. Look for them high on the ingredients list.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
One of the most well-researched skincare ingredients. At 2–5%, niacinamide reduces redness, strengthens the barrier, minimises pores, and regulates sebum — all without irritation. It's suitable for almost all sensitive skin types and layers well with other ingredients.
Centella Asiatica (Cica)
A herb with centuries of use in wound healing, Centella (and its actives: madecassoside, asiaticoside) has excellent anti-inflammatory and barrier-repair properties. Widely used in Korean skincare, it's particularly effective for redness and irritation-prone skin.
Panthenol (Provitamin B5)
A deeply soothing humectant and emollient. Panthenol draws moisture into the skin, supports barrier function, and has mild anti-inflammatory properties. Exceptionally well-tolerated — one of the least likely ingredients to cause a reaction.
Glycerin
One of the safest and most effective humectants known. Glycerin attracts water to the skin from both the environment and deeper layers, keeping skin hydrated without any sensitising potential. Almost every well-formulated moisturiser contains it.
Allantoin
A plant-derived ingredient (originally from comfrey) with notable skin-soothing and healing properties. It softens skin, reduces irritation, and helps damaged skin recover. Commonly found in products for eczema-prone and reactive skin.
Azelaic Acid (low concentration)
At 5–10%, azelaic acid treats redness and rosacea without the irritation associated with other actives. It's anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and can reduce pigmentation. It's one of the few actives suitable for sensitive skin when used correctly.
When introducing any new ingredient, try it on a small area first (inner arm or behind the ear) for 48 hours before applying to your full face.
Ingredients to avoid with sensitive skin
- Fragrance (Parfum) — the leading cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis
- Essential oils — lavender, citrus, eucalyptus, peppermint are common triggers
- Alcohol Denat. — drying and sensitising at high concentrations
- High-concentration acids — glycolic acid above 5–7% is often too aggressive
- Retinol (initially) — if used, start at the lowest concentration (0.025%) with a buffer moisturiser
- Witch hazel — often marketed as natural and soothing; actually a common irritant
Building a sensitive skin routine
Keep it simple. A three-step routine that your skin tolerates is far more effective than an eight-step routine it reacts to.
- Morning: Gentle cleanser → hydrating serum (niacinamide or hyaluronic acid) → SPF 50 (mineral-based for sensitive skin)
- Evening: Gentle cleanser → barrier moisturiser with ceramides and panthenol
Add one active at a time — only once your skin is consistently comfortable with the basics.